APRIL 2026 EDITION
the jm zell report
Where fine wine, good company, and commercial real estate intersect
All,
There’s a difference between wines that work in the moment and the ones you keep going back to. This month had a bit of both. A dinner with one of our favorite producers that made the wines feel like more than just what was in the glass, a few bottles we’re excited about, and a few things we’ve been reaching for more than expected.
Cheers,
Jeff & the JM Zell Team
WHAT WE’RE DRINKING:
(When the Setting Matches the Wine)
Multi-Course Dinner with Gaja at The Occidental in Washington, DC
As we stepped into The Occidental by Stephen Starr, the room made an impression right away. Green velvet booths, low lighting, and a space that feels polished without trying too hard. It feels like stepping into another time, a little more formal, a little more intentional, but still relaxed.
The occasion was a small, intimate dinner led by Giovanni Gaja, part of the current generation of the Gaja family, whose grandfather and father have been shaping Italian wine, particularly in Piedmont, for generations. He walked through each bottle in a way that felt natural, giving everyone time to sit with each course and come back to each glass as it opened up.
One of our favorite moments came right at the start. The crab cake paired with both the 2023 and 2008 Gaja Gaia & Rey Chardonnay Langhe set the pace right away. The crab had a clean richness, and the wines complemented it in different ways.
The 2023 was fresh and more straightforward, with less oak and a lighter, more typical expression. The 2008, especially from magnum, showed much more depth and character. Fuller, silkier, and more expressive than the 2023, with a subtle, integrated woodiness that added to the overall complexity.
2023 Gaja Gaia & Rey Chardonnay Langhe:
Fresh and precise, with citrus, green apple, and a clean mineral edge. Still young but already showing a lot of structure and energy. It worked well with the crab, keeping everything light and balanced without taking anything away.
VIEW WINE DETAILS ≫
2008 Gaja Gaia & Rey Chardonnay Langhe (Magnum):
More open and layered, with ripe orchard fruit and a softer, more rounded feel. The magnum gave it extra depth, and it really came into its own with the jumbo lump crab, matching the richness while still staying fresh.
VIEW WINE DETAILS ≫
2020 Gaja Pieve Santa Restituta Rennina:
Still on the younger side, with red fruit, spice, and a firmer structure. It brought a bit more edge to the table and held up well against the steak tartare, adding contrast without overpowering it. VIEW WINE DETAILS ≫
2000 Gaja Pieve Santa Restituta 'Sugarille':
Fully open and easy to stay with, showing softer tannins, dried fruit, and a bit more earth. It felt more relaxed next to the tartare, rounding things out and making the pairing feel seamless. VIEW WINE DETAILS ≫
2022 Gaja Barbaresco:
Bright and lifted, with red berries and a clean structure. It kept the veal parmesan from feeling too heavy, adding just enough freshness to balance the dish.
VIEW WINE DETAILS ≫
2004 Gaja Sori Tildin Langhe-Barbaresco:
Developed and layered, with depth and a longer finish that kept evolving in the glass. It settled in nicely with the veal, matching the richness while continuing to open up over time. VIEW WINE DETAILS ≫
WHAT Jeff is Buying:
2020 Mullineux 'Essence' Chenin Blanc:
Rich and layered, with ripe stone fruit, citrus, and a subtle honeyed note. There’s weight and texture, balanced by bright acidity and a clean mineral edge. It shows both concentration and freshness, making it easy to stay with over time. VIEW WINE DETAILS ≫
2023 Domaine Francois Mikulski Les Gouttes d'Or:
Focused and precise, with citrus, green apple, and a light floral lift. The palate is clean and structured, with a fine mineral backbone that keeps everything tight and energetic. Still young, but already showing great balance and clarity. VIEW WINE DETAILS ≫
2023 Chateau Palmer Historical XIXth Century Blend: A distinctive and aromatic blend, with red fruit, spice, and a subtle herbal note. It’s softer and more open than a traditional Bordeaux, with smooth tannins and a lifted, elegant finish. Approachable now, with enough structure to evolve. VIEW WINE DETAILS ≫
PRODUCTS & PURVEYORS:
Most Reached For – APL Sneakers:
Not wine-specific, but a staple all the same. Comfortable, clean, and a bit more elevated than your typical sneaker, they work just as well for a workout as they do for more casual wear. We love the range of color options and the variety in price points. If you know Jeff, you know he takes his shoes seriously, and he’s done more than enough “testing” across styles and colors to back it up.
VIEW MORE DETAILS ≫
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JM Zell is offering its opinions only in this newsletter and is not a representative or advocate for any of the wine, restaurants, suppliers, or growers discussed in this newsletter. JM Zell receives no remuneration for its recommendations.