MARCH 2026 EDITION
the jm zell report
Where fine wine, good company, and commercial real estate intersect
All,
Spring has arrived, which means longer days, fuller calendars, and the part of the year where every occasion becomes an excuse to be outside. Here’s what we’re drinking, what we’re buying, and what’s caught our attention this month.
Cheers,
Jeff & the JM Zell Team
WHAT WE’RE DRINKING:
(Not an average Wednesday Evening)
13 Bottle Domaine François Raveneau Dinner at Smithereens NYC
This was not a typical weeknight lineup. Held at Smithereens, one of the hottest hole-in-the-wall restaurants in New York right now, the dinner brought together Domaine François Raveneau for a rare side-by-side tasting of multiple vintages.
Domaine François Raveneau is widely considered the best producer of Chablis in the world, making the opportunity to taste through multiple vintages especially rare.
The room was quiet in that focused way that comes with a genuinely special experience. Glasses moved slowly as people returned to the same pours, noticing how each vintage showed differently. The younger wines felt precise and structured, while the older bottles opened into something more layered and complete.
Across the board, the wines felt built for the table. Paired with a seafood-driven menu at Smithereens, everything clicked in a natural way. The brighter wines worked with the lighter dishes, while the older vintages handled the richer courses with ease. The food stayed thoughtful and understated, letting the wines take the lead without ever feeling secondary.
Tasting across vintages offered a clear view of how these wines evolve over time. Structure softens, aromatics deepen, and everything comes into better balance. It made the experience less about indulgence and more about perspective.
A few of the many memorable bottles from the evening included:
Domaine François Raveneau, Petit Chablis 2014 (Magnum):
A great reminder not to overlook the category. Fresh and lifted, with citrus, light orchard fruit, and a clean mineral finish. The magnum format gave it a bit more presence, showing more depth than expected while staying very composed.
VIEW WINE DETAILS ≫
Domaine François Raveneau, Chablis 1er Cru Monts Mains 2002: Open and expressive, with a balance of ripe citrus, stone fruit, and underlying minerality. Fully in its window, showing texture and generosity without losing structure. A wine that felt complete and very easy to return to. VIEW WINE DETAILS ≫
Domaine François Raveneau, Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre 2014:
Layered and composed, with citrus, subtle reduction, and a steady mineral line throughout. More depth than the Village wine, with a longer finish and a sense of quiet confidence as it evolved in the glass. VIEW WINE DETAILS ≫
Domaine François Raveneau, Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 1998:
A benchmark expression of Chablis. Deep, precise, and tightly structured, with citrus, stone, and a persistent mineral core. There’s a sense of control and completeness here that builds with time in the glass. Clearly built for the long term, but already compelling. VIEW WINE DETAILS ≫
WHAT Jeff is Buying:
2020 Roagna Barolo Pira Vecchie Viti, Piedmont:
Structured and precise, with depth that reveals itself slowly, this is a wine that rewards patience and attention. Classic in profile, yet unmistakably distinctive in its expression. VIEW WINE DETAILS ≫
2020 Bérêche Grand Cru (Ambonnay / Cramant / Mailly), Champagne:
Site-driven Champagne at its best. Each village brings its own character, but all share a sense of energy, texture, and precision that defines Bérêche. Serious yet inviting, these are bottles that continue to impress with every pour. VIEW WINE DETAILS ≫
2016 Château La Tour du Pin Figeac, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru:
A Right Bank Bordeaux that consistently overdelivers. Softly structured with dark fruit and subtle earth, it offers approachability now while still holding its shape. A thoughtful, everyday classic that never feels ordinary. VIEW WINE DETAILS ≫
2023 Luis Seabra Xisto Cru Branco, Douro Valley:
An expressive white that leans into minerality and texture rather than weight. Precise and quietly complex, it brings a fresh perspective to the table and stands out for its balance and restraint. A compelling alternative to more traditional choices. VIEW WINE DETAILS ≫
2024 Sphaerics “If and Only If”, Alexander Valley:
A newer label that’s quickly earned a spot in the rotation. Focused and polished, with ripe dark fruit, subtle structure, and a clean, composed finish. It strikes that balance between approachability and seriousness, making it just as easy to open now as it is to hold onto. VIEW WINE DETAILS ≫
2023 Aubert Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast:
Classic Sonoma Coast in profile, with red berry fruit, light spice, and a clean, coastal edge. There’s a restraint here that keeps everything in balance, making it both versatile and quietly compelling. VIEW WINE DETAILS ≫
2023 Saxum Paderewski Vineyard, Paso Robles:
One of the more compelling expressions from Paso right now. Deep, layered, and textured, with dark fruit, spice, and a subtle savory edge. The structure is there, but so is the restraint, giving it a sense of control that carries through the finish. Built to age, but already showing well. VIEW WINE DETAILS ≫
PRODUCTS & PURVEYORS:
Essential Tools for Serious Bottles
Best for Opening Older Bottles – Wine Couple:
For anyone drinking mature wines, this is essential. This tool combines a traditional corkscrew with an Ah-So design, allowing you to remove delicate, aged corks cleanly. It’s the tool sommeliers reach for when the bottle matters. VIEW MORE DETAILS ≫
Best for Drinking Without Committing to the Bottle - Coravin:
A system that lets you pour wine without pulling the cork, preserving the rest for weeks or longer. Coravin has changed how people drink great wine. Using a fine needle and argon gas, you can pour a glass while keeping the remaining wine untouched by oxygen.
Needle selection is important, as different needles are designed for varying cork types and pour speeds, helping ensure both optimal performance and minimal impact on the cork. Perfect for opening higher-end bottles midweek without the pressure to finish them. VIEW MORE DETAILS ≫
This newsletter is created for JM Zell’s friends, clients, business associates, trusted vendors, and professional partners. Please enjoy and share responsibly.
JM Zell is offering its opinions only in this newsletter and is not a representative or advocate for any of the wine, restaurants, suppliers, or growers discussed in this newsletter. JM Zell receives no remuneration for its recommendations.